Came across this online today and thought I'd re-post for those who have never visited the province...
Posted by
Fodor's Guest Blogger on June 26, 2012 at 12:45:46 PM EDT
Posted in
Trip Ideas & Itineraries Tagged:
Canada,
Halifax,
Nova Scotia,
Tips
By Susan MacCallum-Whitcomb
Clinging precariously to Canada's East Coast, the Nova Scotian
peninsula isn't just an accessible (and affordable) destination. As a
spot where lobster traps outnumber tourist traps, it ticks all the boxes
for an unspoiled seaside escape—and, unless you're obsessed with
multi-colored leaves, summer is the best time to come. When planning a
trip, just remember that, while small by national standards, the
province is still twice the size of Massachusetts. So start by
concentrating on these four key regions.
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| Aerial view of Halifax |
Halifax
Known as Atlantic Canada's marquee city, Halifax
is the obvious choice when you're jonsing for an urban fix. But it also
serves as a fitting introduction to Nova Scotia's particular brand of
charm because, like the province as a whole, it has sociable locals and
history to spare, plus water, water, everywhere. Halifax rims a huge natural harbor (only Sydney boasts a larger one) and virtually all major attractions—including the Canadian Museum of Immigration at Pier 21, Maritime Museum of the Atlantic, and star-shaped Halifax Citadel—sit within sight of it. For an up-close look, stroll along the Waterfront Boardwalk or, better yet, linger there over a Keith's beer. Afterwards board a Cable Wharf vessel for a harbor cruise.
Insider's Tip: As an alternative to a lengthy tour, make a return cross-harbor trip for less than $5 on a commuter ferry.
Launched in 1752, the service was once managed by native Haligonian
Samuel Cunard who later established the famed Cunard Line.
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| Peggy's Cove Lighthouse |
South Shore
When my family rented a villa in Tuscany one year, the owners said they couldn't understand why we'd bothered coming when
their
favorite place in the world—Nova Scotia's South Shore—sits right
outside Halifax. Edging the Atlantic Ocean for about 190 miles, the
waterside route is punctuated with time-warped towns like
Chester,
Mahone Bay, and
Shelburne
that evoke vintage New England. (The resemblance explains why many
movies set in Maine or Massachusetts are actually filmed here.) The
towering lighthouse at
Peggy's Cove, one of Canada's signature sites, creates the area's best photo op; while
Lunenburg, a vibrant 18th-century community so well preserved that it's been named a
UNESCO World Heritage Site, makes the best home base.
Insider's Tip: Shopping alert! Aside from the
expected maritime amenities (think beaches, boats, quaint B&B's and
oodles of fresh seafood), the South Shore also features a surplus of
quality craft shops. Folk art and antique stores are plentiful too.
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| Digby Fishing |
Fundy Shore and Annapolis Valley
The Atlantic merges into the mighty Bay of Fundy near the province's
southern tip, bringing you face to face with the highest tides on earth.
In this less-developed region the biggest attractions come courtesy of
Mother Nature, as do the smallest, with
whales dominating the former category and renowned
Digby scallops
having a lock on the latter. Ready for something different? Loop back
to Halifax through the Annapolis Valley. This pastoral stretch is a
revelation for vacationers who equate Nova Scotia exclusively with the
sea since it promises
orchards, vineyards and
wineries. Several of Canada's oldest settlements are here as well, among them
Port Royal. Founded in 1605, it predates Jamestown, Virginia, by two years.
Insider's Tip: Minimize car time without sacrificing much on either the South or Fundy Shore by driving down to
Liverpool and cutting cross-country to
Annapolis Royal. The trip takes approximately 90 minutes, passing
Kejimkujik National Park en route.
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| Driving the Cabot Trail |
Cape Breton
Although connected to the mainland by a mile-long causeway,
Cape Breton Island feels like another world. That's partly because the topography is more dramatic—especially along the legendary
Cabot Trail.
A vertigo-inducing, cliff-hugging coastal road that extends for 185
glorious miles. Another reason is that the physical similarities between
Cape Breton and Scotland attracted droves of displaced Highlanders
during the 18th century, and their cultural legacy is clearly evident.
For proof, visit the
Gaelic College of Celtic Arts and Crafts, drink a dram at North America's original
single-malt whiskey distillery, and then dance 'til you drop at one of the fiddle-fueled
ceilidhs (traditional "kitchen parties") held nightly in summer.
Insider's Tip: Get optimal views, plus better access to lookouts in
Cape Breton Highlands National Park,
by approaching the Cabot Trail from the east and traveling
counterclockwise. Just drive it in daylight. Night is prime time for
moose—not motorists.